{"id":758,"date":"2025-06-03T10:30:35","date_gmt":"2025-06-03T10:30:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/?p=758"},"modified":"2025-06-03T10:30:36","modified_gmt":"2025-06-03T10:30:36","slug":"wolfgang-gullich-action-directe-revolucion-octavo-grado","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/historias\/biografias\/wolfgang-gullich-action-directe-revolucion-octavo-grado\/","title":{"rendered":"Wolfgang G\u00fcllich y la revoluci\u00f3n del octavo grado: el legado de Action Directe"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>En el mundo de la escalada deportiva, hay momentos que marcan un antes y un despu\u00e9s. Uno de ellos ocurri\u00f3 el 14 de septiembre de 1991, cuando el escalador alem\u00e1n Wolfgang G\u00fcllich logr\u00f3 la primera ascensi\u00f3n de <em>Action Directe<\/em> en el Frankenjura, Alemania. Esta v\u00eda, con una dificultad de 9a (5.14d), se convirti\u00f3 en un hito al ser la primera en alcanzar ese grado, estableciendo un nuevo est\u00e1ndar en la escalada deportiva.<a href=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/news\/action-directe-worlds-first-5-14d-turns-25\/?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">sgmullins.github.io+12gripped.com+12en.wikipedia.org+12<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Action_Directe_%28escalada%29?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">en.wikipedia.org+6es.wikipedia.org+6en.wikipedia.org+6<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\ud83e\uddd7\u200d\u2642\ufe0f El desaf\u00edo de <em>Action Directe<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Action Directe<\/em> es una v\u00eda corta pero intensa de 15 metros, caracterizada por movimientos din\u00e1micos sobre peque\u00f1as presas de uno y dos dedos. El inicio presenta un salto din\u00e1mico hacia un agujero de dos dedos, seguido de una serie de movimientos exigentes que requieren una combinaci\u00f3n de fuerza, precisi\u00f3n y resistencia. G\u00fcllich complet\u00f3 la v\u00eda en una secuencia de 16 movimientos, que le tom\u00f3 aproximadamente 70 segundos.<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Action_Directe_%28climb%29?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">outdoors.codidact.com+2en.wikipedia.org+2es.wikipedia.org+2<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Action_Directe_%28escalada%29?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">es.wikipedia.org<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\ud83d\udee0\ufe0f Innovaci\u00f3n en el entrenamiento: el campus board<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Para prepararse para los desaf\u00edos \u00fanicos de <em>Action Directe<\/em>, G\u00fcllich desarroll\u00f3 el \u00abcampus board\u00bb en 1988. Este dispositivo de entrenamiento, instalado en el Campus Centre de N\u00faremberg, consist\u00eda en una serie de listones de madera dispuestos en una pared inclinada. El objetivo era mejorar la fuerza y la explosividad de los dedos y los brazos, permitiendo realizar movimientos din\u00e1micos sin apoyo de los pies. El campus board revolucion\u00f3 el entrenamiento en escalada y se convirti\u00f3 en una herramienta esencial para escaladores de todo el mundo.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.metoliusclimbing.com\/media\/Campus_Board_Brochure.pdf?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">climbing-history.org+17metoliusclimbing.com+17gripped.com+17<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Campus_board?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">beaconclimbing.com+3es.wikipedia.org+3gripped.com+3<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\ud83c\udf0d Un legado perdurable<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Desde su primera ascensi\u00f3n, <em>Action Directe<\/em> ha sido repetida por numerosos escaladores de \u00e9lite, incluyendo a Alexander Adler, Adam Ondra y M\u00e9lissa Le Nev\u00e9, quien en 2020 se convirti\u00f3 en la primera mujer en completar la v\u00eda. A pesar de las repeticiones, la v\u00eda sigue siendo un referente de dificultad y un s\u00edmbolo de la evoluci\u00f3n de la escalada deportiva.<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Action_Directe_%28climb%29?utm_source=chatgpt.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">mountainproject.com+3en.wikipedia.org+3es.wikipedia.org+3<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\ud83c\udfa5 V\u00eddeo recomendado<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Para apreciar la intensidad y la t\u00e9cnica requeridas en <em>Action Directe<\/em>, te recomendamos ver el siguiente v\u00eddeo:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-gestor-del-servicio wp-block-embed-gestor-del-servicio wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"ast-oembed-container \" style=\"height: 100%;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"RARE CLIP! Wolfgang G\u00fcllich training on his campus board\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Fxnv4ptTpsg?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>En el mundo de la escalada deportiva, hay momentos que marcan un antes y un despu\u00e9s. Uno de ellos ocurri\u00f3 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[85,91],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-758","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-biografias","category-momentos-clave"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/758","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=758"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/758\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":760,"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/758\/revisions\/760"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=758"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=758"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.routsetter.com\/lobera\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=758"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}